Ukrainians going for Tokyo 2020 and (16) just recently did Fuck the System 9a in Santa Linya. Last year Nika was #2 in the Lead Youth WCH and she won the Youth European CH in Bouldering. Fedir was #9 in the World Cup in 2017 and in the last three events in 2018, his worst result was #11. How was the trip to Santa Linya and what are your 2019 plan and ambition? Nika: I was very satisfied with the trip.

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Everything went just perfect! I am super happy to have reached the 9a level in climbing. At the beginning of my climbing career I cold just to dream about this. My coach name is Artur Pechii and I am very thankful to him for support and everything he does for me. My plan for the next year is to participate in youth comps and senior WC’s and WCH. I will also try to qualify to the Olympics.

Fedir: This year we have been in Santa Linya two times. First trip (in January) we had very cold conditions and the whole three weeks we were just running on the routes until the fingers become totally numb. On the second time we was much more lucky with the weather and all things went better. I was getting stronger and stronger every day. It’s a pity that time gone so fast.

I think that Santa Linya is a special place with especially dynamic style of climbing and the routes usually requires a lot of power and endurance. I think this style does not fit my style of climbing and this is the reason why we are coming. I'm trying to make it to the Olympics. This year will be very hard and the very hectic for sure:) because you have to take a part in almost all WC`s. When climbing became the Olympic sport things are much better. Almost all official events are funded. But 2 - 3 years ago we almost hadn't any financial support.

Log Cabins 8A+ by Isabelle Faus Pachamama 9a+ by Seb Bouin, who previoudly has done 32 routes 9a to 9b, has done Chris Sharma's 50 meters test piece Pachamama 9a+ in Oliana. (c) Jon Cardwell ' This line is for me one of the best in Oliana (or the best). Thank’s Chris Sharma for bolting this one. I tried it last year but weather was a disaster. It was wet every time. This year it took me two little travel (1.5 weeks both).

Next plan, maybe other route in Oliana and Spain. But the main plan is to be ready for Move in Norway (Flatanger). The Orb 8a by Lynn Hill (58) Lynn Hill was the best female climber in the world in 1990 when she won the World Cup and did the first female 8b+. Remarkable to say the least as she in May 1989 had fallen 22 meters into a tree in Buoux as she had forgotten to tie in properly! In 1993, she made the FA of The Nose and graded it 8a.

The consensus grade is now 8b+! In 2008, she did Chblanke 8A (+) being 47 years old and now 11 years later she is still pushing hard and has done the Orb 8a in Boulder Canyon. Ondra's road to Tokyo #3 - Campus board competition Spectre 8B flash by Brian Nugent, who previously has just done one 8B+, has flashed Spectre 8B in Bishop. ' I cannot think to dream of a climb in first try, but sometimes we cannot think of a dream of truth. First flash in historic problem and I can feel an incredible overwhelm of joy, anger with others for not realize their potential, and most of all FEAR in horrible choss top slab. To rephrase what is said to me by amazed friends “Nuggles on Fire!!!!!” I had a big spray down from friends Bryce and Vincent with specific hand crystal beta and even a mental checklist, but I’m the moment it’s just like a freestyle, “follow the path, go with the flow.”.